“Poor but sexy” is how mayor Klaus Wowereit described Berlin five years ago. Today he might add “grown-up”; the once achingly hip Mitte is now borderline bourgeois, full of modern hotels and gastronome temples, while the city’s artistic hub has migrated to a formerly rough-around-the-edges stretch of Potsdamer Strasse. Kreuzberg—with its pint-size cafés, one-off boutiques, and designer-stroller brigade—has taken over from Prenzlauer Berg as the elite’s stomping ground of choice. And just a little farther south, Neukölln is newly on the map thanks to the quirky, albeit stylish, Hüttenpalast B&B.

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